Inside Mürren: Switzerland's Historic Ski Village with Legendary Slopes
I recently returned from an unforgettable ski adventure in Switzerland, where I discovered the perfect blend of tradition, thrill, and exploration. Over nine days, I visited three remarkable mountain destinations: Mürren, Engelberg, and Andermatt. While these resorts may be less well-known internationally, each offers a world-class experience that deserves attention. In this first part of my journey, I focus on Mürren, a car-free alpine village that embodies the essence of a classic Swiss mountain town.
The Traditional Alpine Charm of Mürren
Perched at 1,638 meters in the Bernese Oberland, Mürren is accessible only by cable car, creating a sense of seclusion from the modern world. This village, home to about 400 residents in summer and bustling in winter, overlooks the stunning Lauterbrunnen Valley, famous for its 72 frozen waterfalls and dramatic, snow-capped peaks. Unlike many ski resorts, Mürren is not a party town; instead, it offers a serene atmosphere with quaint coffee shops and local beer spots, catering to serious skiers and boarders who appreciate refined Swiss cuisine and cozy accommodations.
Journey to the Village: A Scenic Adventure
Getting to Mürren is an experience in itself. From Zurich or Milan, it takes about two hours by train, followed by a choice of routes up the mountain. One option involves a short cable car ride and a five-minute journey on the Mürren cog railway. The more dramatic alternative is the world's steepest cable car, with an incline of up to 98%, climbing 756 meters in just four minutes. This ride feels like an outdoor elevator scaling a sheer mountain wall, offering breathtaking views and photo opportunities.
For transportation in Switzerland, I highly recommend relying on the efficient train system rather than renting a vehicle. A Swiss Travel Pass provides unlimited travel on trains, buses, and boats, plus free entry to over 500 museums and discounts on mountain excursions. The trains are clean, punctual, and connect seamlessly to charming mountain resorts.
Legendary Skiing and Thrilling Attractions
Mürren boasts 53 kilometers of pistes, 14 lifts, and access to world-class backcountry terrain, making it ideal for advanced intermediates and experts. Beginners are welcome, but the resort truly shines with its steep runs and deep snow. On a spectacular bluebird day, I enjoyed groomed reds and challenging black runs off the Birg mid-station, marking an incredible start to my Swiss ski adventure.
The brand-new lift system is an engineering marvel, with gondola stations perched high on mountain peaks. The first mid-station, Birg, features the world-famous Thrill Walk, where adventurers cling to a rock face on a fenced catwalk, and a bistro with a beautiful sundeck. From there, the cable car ascends to Schilthorn, connecting to Piz Gloria, the world's first revolving mountaintop restaurant at 2,970 meters. The views are spectacular, showcasing peaks like the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau, as well as Mont Blanc and Germany's Black Forest.
A James Bond Fan's Dream
For James Bond enthusiasts, Piz Gloria is a must-visit, as it was featured in the 1969 film On Her Majesty's Secret Service. Walking on the platform where the curling scene took place and inside the restaurant during the gunfight sequence is a surreal experience. A Bond World exhibit displays memorabilia and behind-the-scenes footage, and the James Bond theme plays in the gondola, adding to the intrigue.
Piz Gloria offers a full buffet with local dishes like Schnitzel and pasta, completing a 360-degree rotation every hour. Pro tip: remember your table number to avoid losing your spot as the restaurant turns! For more leisurely activities, Mürren provides sledging, winter hiking, and a renovated community center with an Olympic-size outdoor skating and curling rink, an indoor swimming pool, and a spa.
Accommodations and Local Flavor
I stayed at the delightful Hotel Alpenruh, which offers a warm European breakfast and chef-driven dinners featuring local specialties like Schnitzel. Its convenient location next to the Mürren cable car and gondola station makes it an excellent choice. Walking through Mürren's narrow streets, lined with family-owned shops and wooden chalets, you can feel the village's rich history and pride. Many claim Mürren is the birthplace of modern downhill skiing, with a small hut displaying photos of legendary racers from the past.
After three days in this magical ski village, I left with a deep appreciation for its soul, tradition, and alpine spirit. Mürren is a destination I highly recommend for anyone seeking an authentic Swiss mountain experience on their next journey through Switzerland.
