Montreal's cherished Cheskie bakery has embarked on a new chapter, moving just across the street in the heart of Mile End. While its address changed midway through 2025, the quality of its legendary babka and pastries remains uncompromised, much to the relief of its devoted clientele.
A New Home for a Montreal Institution
After 23 years in a cozy, hole-in-the-wall spot on Bernard Street West, owners Cheskie and Malky Lebowitz have relocated their business to the south side of Bernard, just east of Parc Avenue. The new bakery is a significant upgrade, boasting more than double the space of the original, complete with automatic doors and a large storefront window that now draws crowds, especially on Sundays.
"It's crazy," remarked employee Maria Fernanda, who noted the shop's fame has exploded on social media, making it a must-visit stop for tourists exploring the neighbourhood. Despite the modern new digs, she confessed a fondness for the old location: "I miss the older one. It was cosy, but change is good."
The Secret Ingredient? Family and Love
Cheskie is a true family affair. Cheskie Lebowitz, who hails from a family of bakers in New York, runs the kitchen with meticulous care. His wife, Malky, who grew up in Outremont, manages the front of house, accounting, and staff. The bakery opened in March 2002, with Malky nine months pregnant with their fifth daughter. They started with just a few items, like rugelach, and slowly expanded their offerings.
When asked about the secret behind their wildly popular products, particularly the "phenomenal" Russian babka praised by customers from Montreal to Manhattan, Cheskie simply stated, "There's no secret." Malky was quick to interject with her own theory: "It's love." She also credits local ingredients and her husband's attentive approach: "He babies all the recipes."
The recipes, some passed down for generations, were learned from Cheskie's younger brother, Shloimy, in New York. Malky believes their Montreal versions have surpassed the originals. "The recipes are the same, but... (our pastries are) better than New York," she said, attributing it to Canadian flour and water.
More Than a Bakery: A Community Hub
Cheskie serves as a vital community hub. The local Hasidic Jewish population flocks there on Fridays for challah before the Sabbath. The rest of the week, the clientele is a vibrant mix reflecting Mile End's diversity. "He treats everyone the same; it doesn't matter if they're Jewish or not," Malky said of her husband.
The sense of family extends to the staff of over 20 employees, many of whom are Latin American. "The girls that work for me are like family," Malky emphasized. "If my daughter gets married, they all come to the wedding." Employees like Vanessa, with 12 years at the bakery, and Joseph from Burkina Faso, both echoed this sentiment, praising the familial atmosphere and dynamic work environment.
The bakery's expansion includes a new addition: bagels. Malky insists they are not trying to compete with neighbourhood giants like St-Viateur but added them because regulars requested them for sandwiches.
Despite rising costs, Cheskie is committed to keeping prices accessible. "We're the cheapest bakery in Montreal," Malky claimed, noting that rugelach still sell for 50 cents and babka prices haven't increased in years. "I'm not a money guy," Cheskie explained. "I'm trying to be a good, honest guy and be nice to everybody... and then people are happy."
For loyal customers like Arthur Steckler, who travels from Hampstead weekly, or Rita Fuchs, who buys for herself and a neighbour, the move hasn't changed what matters. The "heimishe bakery" (homey bakery) remains, in a new location, the heart of Mile End's food scene.
