Products to help prevent milia. When it comes to skin aging, most of us are well-versed in wrinkles and volume loss. But others may be plagued by a different stubborn concern: milia.
What Are Milia?
Also referred to as “milk spots,” Illinois-based board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jessie Cheung describes milia as “tiny, firm white cysts that sit just under the surface of the skin” that most commonly gather under and around the eye. “The delicate eye area is especially prone because the skin is thinner and doesn’t exfoliate as efficiently,” she said. Formed when dead skin cells get trapped instead of shedding naturally, Cheung said milia are more prevalent in people with thicker, oilier skin, but can also develop with age. “As we age, our natural cell turnover slows, so dead skin cells are more likely to accumulate and get trapped,” she said. “At the same time, many patients start using thicker creams for dryness, which can further occlude the skin and contribute to milia formation.”
Treatment and Prevention
According to Cheung, “Once they’re formed, the most effective treatment is manual extraction in the office using a sterile needle or blade to gently release the trapped keratin.” While implements like sterile lancets and comedone extractors are available online, Cheung doesn’t recommend extracting milia at home. Instead, your best bet is prevention.
Though the tendency is to compare milia to acne, Cheung said the two conditions are different because the latter results from excess oil, bacteria, or inflammation, as opposed to improper skin turnover and trapped cells. But for all their differences, the products and ingredients used to prevent them are very much the same. Take a look at what Cheung and other skin care experts recommend in the list ahead. The experts consulted for this story do not necessarily endorse the products ahead unless otherwise noted.
1. Retinol Eye Cream
A HuffPost-reader adored retinol eye cream. “Preventing milia is all about keeping skin turnover steady without clogging the pores,” Cheung said. “I recommend retinoids, which are the gold standard because they normalize cell turnover and prevent keratin from getting trapped.” Using this information, we selected this HuffPost reader-favorite eye cream by Roc, which contains retinol but is gentle enough for the delicate under-eye. Unlike heavy occlusive creams that might make milia worse, it uses lightweight hydrators like glycerin to keep skin moisturized. $22 at Amazon, $22 at Target.
2. Daily Retinol Cleanser with Peptides
Cheung recommends this Olay retinol facial cleanser because it's “a wash-off retinoid, so it's inherently gentler and less irritating, which is great for patients who are sensitive or new to retinoids.” This creamy cleanser also contains plumping peptides and niacinamide, an antioxidant that can fade dark spots and balance oil production — another benefit for milia-prone people. $15 at Amazon, $15 at Walmart.
3. Retinol Resurfacing Serum
To add to the list of retinol-containing options, we included this beloved resurfacing retinol serum by CeraVe, which has 4.6 out of 5 stars on Amazon across 55,570+ ratings. In addition to containing encapsulated retinol, a more stabilized form of the ingredient, the CeraVe formula uses licorice root extract for skin brightening, niacinamide, and ceramides for a healthy skin barrier. $19 at Amazon, $19 at Target, $22 at Ulta.
4. Face Serum with Glycolic and Lactic Acids
Doyle said that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic “dissolve dead skin buildup on the surface, smooth texture, and prevent cyst formation.” We included the Advanced Clinical's exfoliating face serum, an affordable formula that features a 10% concentration of glycolic and lactic acid and is rated 4.6 out of 5 stars on iHerb across 12,200+ ratings. This retexturizing and lightweight gel formula can target uneven skin tone, irregular texture, and soften the look of fine lines. It also contains soothing vitamin E and antioxidant-rich green tea extract. $13 at iHerb.
5. Clinical Retinol Complex
Lindsay Doyle, a master aesthetician at SkinSpirit in Austin, Texas, calls the SkinMedica Retinol Complex a “staple for preventing milia long-term and foundational for [cell] turnover.” This age defense serum smooths the look of fine lines and improves texture all over the face, also containing an antioxidant complex for neutralizing oxidative stress that can cause premature skin aging. Though pricey, SkinMedica's clinical skin care products are frequently recommended by dermatologists, can be purchased using FSA/HSA funds, and have won a HuffPost Shopping Award. $80 at Dermstore, $80+ at Amazon.
6. Gentle Microfoliant with Enzymes
Cheung said to avoid harsh physical exfoliators, such as scrubs with large, gritty particles, which can create micro-tears in skin, impair cell turnover, and actually make milia worse. This is why we chose Dermalogica's Daily Microfoliant, a gentle exfoliating powder that HuffPost editors are obsessed with. This super-fine polish works into a creamy lather with just a few drops of water and seamlessly softens skin and buffs away irregular texture. It uses a blend of calming oatmeal and skin brighteners, along with papaya enzymes, an ingredient that Doyle recommends for gently exfoliating the delicate eye area or sensitive skin. $20+ at Amazon, $20+ at Sephora, $20+ at Ulta.
7. Gentle and Affordable PHA Toner
According to Cheung, gentle chemical exfoliants such as polyhydroxy acid (PHAs) can help dissolve the buildup of dead skin cells on the skin's surface that cause milia. We found this gentle and affordable toner by The Inkey List — a skin care brand that dermatologists have spoken about before. This texture-improving toner also includes niacinamide to balance oil production and brighten skin, as well as aloe leaf juice for its soothing properties. $15 at Sephora, $18 at The Inkey List.
8. Lytic Gel Cleanser for Oil-Prone Skin
“I like the Epionce Lytic gel cleanser for a gentle exfoliating effect without being harsh, so you're improving cell turnover while still respecting the skin barrier,” Cheung said. This soothing gel cleanser is suited for oily skin types and can even be used to calm itchy, scaly scalps and general irritation, without stripping the skin of its moisture. $44 at Amazon, $44 at Dermstore.
9. Resurfacing Face Wash with AHAs and BHAs
Doyle said that the SkinMedica AHA/BHA exfoliating cleanser combines both physical and chemical exfoliants to keep keratin moving and is great for daily light exfoliation. Intended to make your complexion appear smoother and more radiant, the SkinMedica cleanser features mildly astringent citrus acids, AHAs and BHAs, along with small jojoba oil spheres that lift and polish away dead skin. $48 at Amazon, $48 at Dermstore.
The original version of this story was published on HuffPost at an earlier date.
