Quebec Maple Syrup Producer Accused of Selling Cane-Spiked Syrup in Stores
A Quebec maple syrup producer is under investigation for allegedly selling syrup that has been spiked with cane sugar in cans to retail stores across the province. This revelation comes from an investigative report by Radio-Canada's French-language program Enquête, which uncovered the practice after a journalist noticed an unusual taste in maple syrup purchased from a grocery store.
Investigation Uncovers Widespread Practice
The investigation began when a Radio-Canada journalist purchased maple syrup from a store and found it had a strange flavor. The program traced the can, labeled as "pure maple syrup," back to producer Steve Bourdeau, who operates southwest of Montreal. Enquête subsequently purchased five cans of Bourdeau's syrup from various stores and different batches for testing.
The cans were analyzed at Le Centre ACER (ACER Centre of Quebec), the laboratory responsible for quality control and testing of the province's maple syrup. The results were startling: each can contained at least 50% cane sugar. Luc Lagace, microbiologist and director of research at ACER, stated, "This is the first time I've seen falsification of this kind. You can see that it's outright cane sugar that's been added to the cans. This is not an accident. It's deliberate."
Undercover Operations Reveal Sales Strategy
Enquête conducted undercover operations, including taped phone conversations and hidden camera footage, where individuals posed as grocery store buyers. In these interactions, Bourdeau claimed to sell his syrup to hundreds of Quebec grocery stores, including major chains like IGA and Metro. He boasted about undercutting competitors by selling cans for less than $5 each, though he denied illegally cutting pure maple syrup with other sugars. "There's a lot of jealousy going on," Bourdeau told the undercover team. "Because I have the market. And it's not entirely legal. And I got away with it anyway."
Producer's Response and Regulatory Gaps
When confronted with the investigation's findings, Bourdeau refused to speak on camera but responded via phone and email. Initially calling the test results "impossible," he later suggested that the issue might stem from suppliers in New Brunswick and Ontario, from whom he buys syrup in bulk. He then mixes this with his own syrup and cans it himself—a practice that is not illegal in itself. Isabelle Lapointe, head of the Quebec Federation of Maple Syrup Producers, explained, "A producer can have a business relationship with another producer in Ontario. We have no control over that. The producer still has the responsibility to ensure that he meets the standards that are applicable in Quebec."
However, Bourdeau admitted by phone that he sometimes purchased syrup from Ontario and sold it in cans labeled as "product of Quebec," which is illegal. Genevieve Clermont, head of ACER's inspection division, noted that while 90% of maple syrup sold in bulk from Quebec is tested, syrup in cans sold directly by producers to grocery stores is not subject to the same scrutiny.
Ongoing Developments and Producer's Claims
Bourdeau asserted that he abides by all provincial regulations and is initiating his own probe into the source of his syrup, with plans to establish his own inspection system. Despite this, he indicated that he had no intention of buying back any syrup already sold to grocery stores that remains on shelves. This case highlights potential vulnerabilities in the regulatory framework for maple syrup production and sales in Quebec, raising concerns about food authenticity and consumer trust in a key agricultural product.
