It has been two decades since a small group of wine enthusiasts made an unlikely wager on the Similkameen Valley, betting that the wild, windy, sun-drenched, rocky valley could produce wines capable of turning heads. In 2006, they established Clos du Soleil Winery, the "vineyard of the sun," bringing a refined Old World sensibility to a New World frontier, reminiscent of early pioneers who sought silver and gold in the area.
The Bordeaux Model in a Rugged Terroir
The Bordeaux model was always the aspiration, but to many observers it seemed an impossible task given the rough, untamed Similkameen terroir and the elegant style of modern Bordeaux wines. My introduction came near the beginning, when I was cornered at an Okanagan tasting in Vancouver by an exuberant partner, Spencer Massie, a retired Royal Canadian Navy lieutenant-commander who developed a love for wine during his years at sea. Massie drove the early efforts, consulting with the Herder family, among the earliest Similkameen wine growers, to plant the right grapes in the right location.
Establishing the Vineyard
The original 2.6-hectare parcel on the upper Keremeos bench was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon. From the start, the group farmed sustainably, embracing organic and biodynamic practices to produce wines with a sense of place and to ensure the vineyard's longevity for decades. Today, Clos du Soleil tends 16 hectares across five vineyards.
Winemaking Talent
The winemaking at Clos du Soleil has been almost exclusively in the hands of two talented Canadians. Massie enlisted fellow high school classmate and revered organic winemaker Ann Sperling to consult during the early years. The quality of those early releases set the winery on a firm path to success, laying the groundwork for current winemaker Michael Clark, who took over in 2012 and has since crafted some of British Columbia's finest wines.
Clark was drawn to the owners' vision and the valley's singular terroir, something he says was unlike anything he had seen in European or Canadian wine regions. He has also remained true to his personal vision, championing minimal intervention, organic viticulture, and a hands-off approach in the cellar, believing in biodynamic methods and wild fermentation to let Similkameen soils and sage-scented air speak through the wines.
20th Anniversary Celebration
Last month, Clark was in Vancouver celebrating the 20th anniversary, speaking to a sold-out crowd at the Wedgewood Hotel's Bacchus Restaurant. He served three old vintages of the flagship Clos du Soleil Signature red: 2010, 2013, and 2015 to emphasize the ability of Clos du Soleil wines to age.
The 2010 showed extremely well, given its age and the vineyards' youth at the time. It was a cool year that produced a leaner, savory style that has benefited the wine as it has aged. The 2013 was a star, easily the best wine of the night, showcasing all the best traits of a well-aged Similkameen red. The 2015 comes from a hot year. It is less European in style and more Napa, but still possesses the balance and savoir faire of the Similkameen Valley, a region that, 20 years down the road, now stands comfortably on its own name.
