Vancouver's Victoria Drive: A Global Culinary Hub in East Vancouver
While it may not boast the trendiness of Yaletown, the stretch of Victoria Drive between East 34th and 37th in east Vancouver is a hidden gem bursting with delicious international cuisine. This area, often overlooked, is a testament to the city's rich ethnic diversity, with over 30 restaurants and cafés serving dishes from around the world. From Vietnamese and Chinese staples to Japanese, Mexican, Salvadoran, Ukrainian, Indian, Korean, Filipino, and Middle Eastern offerings, it's a true United Nations of food, complete with classic spots like Neighbours pizza joint.
A Melting Pot of Flavors and Cultures
Maria Avila, co-owner of Adelitas, a Mexican restaurant at 5178 Victoria Drive, describes the street as "a little international town." She notes, "People who want to enjoy different ethnic or international food, this is a good place. If they come for Vietnamese food and see us, they might try something from Mexico." Adelitas, with its 20 seats and minimal decor—featuring sombreros and colorful Mexican papel picado—epitomizes the mom-and-pop establishments that dominate the area. Avila emphasizes authenticity, preparing everything from scratch, including traditional Mexico City dishes like enmoladas, corn tortillas filled with chicken, beef, or veggies and covered in rich mole sauce.
The affordability of Victoria Drive, with its older buildings and cheaper rents compared to downtown highrises, has been crucial for these small businesses. Andy Yan, director of the City program at Simon Fraser University, refers to such areas as "startup neighbourhoods," where immigrant entrepreneurs can launch ventures with limited capital. "These are immigrant entrepreneurs," Yan explains. "They have a few dollars and open up a small business, trying to make a go of it." This economic reality means many restaurants lack websites or Google presence, encouraging old-school exploration by foot.
Evolution and Enduring Appeal
Writer Chris Cheung, who grew up nearby, recalls the area's transformation from an Italian enclave to a vibrant extension of Vietnamese influence, akin to Little Saigon on Kingsway. He highlights favorites like Hoang Yen for bún chả cá and bun rieu, Banh Mi Saigon for sandwiches and paté chaud, and Lien Hiep for steamed rice rolls. Hien Nguyen of Dalat Vietnamese Cuisine notes that while Kingsway saw closures post-COVID, Victoria Drive remains a hub for Vietnamese cuisine, specializing in central Vietnamese dishes.
Weekends buzz with activity, from dim sum at Western Lake Chinese Seafood to the enduring presence of Kent's Kitchen. Although chain restaurants like Dairy Queen and Starbucks dot the area near East 41st, the real draw is unique delicacies, such as the paklava at Kamo bakery. Owner Kamo Mawlood, Kurdish from Iraq, blends Middle Eastern flavors into his own recipes, showcasing the street's creative fusion.
Walkable Exploration and Hidden Treasures
Concentrated between East 34th and 37th, Victoria Drive's restaurants are easily walkable, making it ideal for culinary adventures. Beyond food, quirky spots like the SPCA thrift store offer unusual finds, adding to the neighborhood's charm. This article is part of a series celebrating Metro Vancouver's Eat Streets, aiming to highlight community-focused food corridors. With 33 food options, free two-hour parking, and some pay parking, it's a destination for those seeking diversity and authenticity.
In summary, Victoria Drive stands as a vibrant culinary corridor, where immigrant-driven businesses thrive, offering a global taste experience in the heart of east Vancouver. Its evolution from Italian roots to a multicultural hub reflects the city's dynamic food scene, inviting locals and visitors alike to discover its hidden flavors.
