Vancouver Chef Benjamin Lim Recreates Izakaya Magic with Nomo Nomo Restaurant
In the heart of Vancouver's Commercial Drive, chef Benjamin Lim has opened Nomo Nomo, a restaurant that captures the essence of Japanese izakaya culture. Lim, who also co-owns the popular Vietnamese restaurant The Lunch Lady just up the street, drew inspiration from his early career nights spent in these informal Japanese establishments.
From Industry Nights to Restaurant Vision
Years ago, after completing long shifts during the formative stages of his cooking career, Lim would frequently gather with fellow industry professionals at local izakayas. These Japanese venues specialized in small plates and drinks, with neither element taking precedence over the other, all within a relaxed and unpretentious setting.
"The space felt right," Lim explained about the location for Nomo Nomo. "It was small but intimate. It's about the experience—that closeness you feel. Everybody's at the bar, everybody's kind of connected, one energy. That was one of the key things that attracted us to the space."
Creating an Intimate, Casual Atmosphere
The interior of Nomo Nomo has been deliberately designed to encourage lingering, conversation, and shared plates. Japanese pop-culture collectibles line the shelves, anime plays on a television screen, and conversations naturally overlap at the bar area.
Lim's vision was to create a place where cooks, regular patrons, and first-time visitors could gather without any pretence, stay as long as they wished, and immediately feel comfortable and at ease.
Japanese-Inspired Cocktails with Local Flair
Behind the bar, mixologists craft innovative cocktails that blend Japanese influences with local ingredients. The team, led by bar manager Lucas Szaraz and beverage director Wayne Chow, creates drinks like the Tonka, featuring whisky with shaved tonka beans on ice cubes.
Other signature cocktails include the Suiku, which combines watermelon-forward flavors with a dash of horseradish aperitif from local producers The Irony Spirits, and the Papurika, which incorporates a unique kombu manzanilla mixture of kelp and sherry.
Innovative Japanese-Ish Cuisine
The food at Nomo Nomo follows what Lim describes as "Japanese intent" rather than strict authenticity. "I just love and respect the culture tremendously—I visit Japan a lot," Lim said. "But I wanted to do something that's more me. Japanese-ish. Not quite authentic, but the word I want to use is intent."
The culinary approach is loosely based on yoshoku, a Japanese culinary tradition that applies Japanese techniques and flavors to Western ingredients. However, Lim and chef de cuisine Heedong Choi have put their own creative spin on these traditional dishes.
Creative Dishes on the Nomo Nomo Menu
The restaurant's ten-plate menu features innovative creations that push the boundaries of traditional izakaya fare. One standout dish is a tartare made from locally caught trout, topped with two varieties of roe and served alongside oversized fried vermicelli crackers.
Another highlight is tender slices of pork collar, described by service manager Gian Mancenido as "if tenderloin and pork belly had a baby," accompanied by a spicy apple kimchee that provides a perfect complement to the rich pork.
"Those dishes have become staples in izakayas because they've been around so long," Lim noted. "When my Japanese guests ask me, 'Oh, this is yoshoku,' I say, 'This is super yoshoku.' This is the evolution of yoshoku. I'm pushing the boundaries and asking, how can I keep exploring this direction?"
With Nomo Nomo, Benjamin Lim has successfully translated his personal experiences and culinary philosophy into a vibrant Vancouver dining destination that honors Japanese izakaya culture while adding his own distinctive creative touch.
