End of an Era: Maestro SVP to Close After 32 Years on Montreal's Main
Montreal's culinary landscape is losing a pioneering establishment as Maestro SVP, the city's first all-purpose oyster bar, prepares to serve its final oysters in March. After 35 years in business, with the last 32 located on St-Laurent Boulevard, founder-owner Ilene Polansky has decided to close the doors of her iconic restaurant.
The Changing Face of St-Laurent Boulevard
Polansky cites multiple factors behind the closure, but emphasizes that the transformation of St-Laurent Boulevard—particularly between Sherbrooke Street and Pine Avenue—has been a significant contributor. "When I first got to the Main, it was the star street of the city," Polansky recalls. "It was magical times for the restaurants and clubs here. The movie scene was big. Celebs were here throwing around money. It's a whole different scene today."
Once the epicenter of Montreal's restaurant and club scene during the 1990s, when Maestro SVP served as bivalve central, the area has seen a dramatic shift over the past decade. Long gone are supper-club havens like Buonanotte, Globe, and Primadonna, with the action moving to other parts of the city.
Economic Realities and Personal Factors
At 64 years old, Polansky acknowledges that physical demands and changing economic conditions have made continuing unsustainable. "My feet hurt and my hands are arthritic after decades of shucking," she says. "It's time. My lease is over. Business is just not the same. I'm working alone now in the front of the restaurant and serving tables. I can't afford to hire anyone."
She describes a stark reality on St-Laurent Boulevard today: "St-Laurent is dead. No cars, no traffic, no action, no nightlife. After COVID, everything just went down." Despite offering 12 types of oysters—including an oyster poutine—and a solid variety of other seafood, Polansky notes that customers simply don't have the disposable income they once did.
Neighboring Restaurants Share Similar Struggles
The challenges facing Maestro SVP reflect broader trends in the area. Joe Zhou, owner of the acclaimed Chinese eatery 31° Latitude located just a few doors away, reports that sales have dropped over 20% in the last year alone. "This area used to be so lively. That's what brought us here," Zhou says. "But it's not the same now. Our regulars are coming less often. I know the economy is not good and it's clear restaurants are having a difficult time trying to survive."
Marco Russo, who recently opened Mirella Gnoccheria next door to Maestro SVP, acknowledges the difficult climate but remains cautiously optimistic. "No question, it's been tough and our timing may not have been great in opening in the winter," he admits. "Business in the area is certainly shifting. There have been many restaurant closures around here and in Little Italy."
Celebrity Memories and Humorous Anecdotes
Polansky fondly remembers more vibrant times, pointing to autographed oyster shells on the walls signed by a who's who of celebrities, politicians, and patrons including Leonard Cohen, Jean Reno, Seth Rogen, Bo Derek, and Guy Lafleur. She particularly chuckles about the time late Quebec premier Bernard Landry visited weeks before his 2001 inauguration.
"He kept repeating over and over again this was a fascist reaction to tax collection," Polansky recalls of Landry's reaction to her humorous billing practice—replacing GST with "Chretien" and PST with the Quebec premier's name. Despite the incident, she remained undaunted, continuing the practice until computer billing regulations changed.
A Personal Paradox
In a surprising revelation, Polansky admits she has only eaten one oyster in her entire life. "Before starting here, I used to work at an oyster bar in Toronto for a few years," she explains. "There wasn't one here. So I figured time had come to open one in my hometown. But oysters to me are like coriander: you either love them or don't, and I don't, although I do love coriander."
Maestro SVP, located at 3615 St-Laurent Boulevard, will serve its final customers on March 22, marking the end of a significant chapter in Montreal's dining history.
