A couple recently approached me with a burning question: “Should we go eat at Akira Back?” Their curiosity is understandable. When Akira Back Ottawa opened two months ago inside the Fairmont Château Laurier, it made for a dramatic change at Ottawa’s 114-year-old grande-dame hotel.
The space that is now Akira Back Ottawa was previously Wilfrid’s, the Château’s main dining room that opened in the early 1990s. During the COVID-19 pandemic, Wilfrid’s closed. When it eventually reopened, it was underutilized. Last year, the Château announced a “complete transformation” for Wilfrid’s. The result, which debuted in mid-March, was Akira Back Ottawa, one of more than two dozen restaurants in the global Akira Back restaurant group.
There are Akira Back restaurants in upscale hotels in some of the world’s great cities, from Paris to Dubai to Istanbul to Singapore to Hong Kong. Toronto’s W Hotel and the Montcalm Mayfair in London both have Akira Back restaurants, which are owned by the immensely wealthy, Vancouver-based Lalji family, which also owns the Château in Ottawa. However Akira Back’s arrival in Ottawa came to happen, the Château’s pride and excitement about being in such posh company — joining the empire, you might say — makes sense.
Given the sheer novelty of Akira Back Ottawa, I could have told the inquisitive couple to try it, just to see what the fuss was about. But that would have been ducking the question. The Château’s bold decision aside, what really matters are whether Akira Back’s dark, deluxe ambience appeals to you, and, above all, whether its pretty dishes justify their high prices.
To quote Back himself, who I met at the restaurant’s mid-March gala opening, Akira Back Ottawa has a “vibe.” He didn’t really elaborate, but I think he’s referring to the Ottawa restaurant’s projection of overtly moneyed comfort manifested in dark, serious tables and oversized seating. Akira Back Ottawa may remind some of Med Supper Club in Lansdowne Park, only more sombre.
It may also recall a slick, well-funded restaurant in a Las Vegas resort, which makes sense given that the DNA for Back’s various restaurants can be traced to the Las Vegas strip. Back, who was born in Korea and moved to America, now lives in Las Vegas, where he launched his first restaurant, Yellowtail Japanese Restaurant & Lounge, in the Bellagio Hotel and Casino in 2008.
Also notable about the restaurant’s ambience is how much it smacks you in the face with the Akira Back brand. Before you enter, you see Back’s likeness on the wall in an image somewhere between a caricature and abstract art. Back’s signature is on the restaurant’s artful plates, on the ball caps of sushi-counter chefs and even on the paper bands around disposable chopsticks before you snap them apart.
Food: Overhyped and Pricey
The menu features dishes like tuna pizza, wagyu gyoza, and miso black cod. While visually appealing, the flavors often fall short of expectations. The tuna pizza, a signature dish, is a crispy rice cake topped with spicy tuna and avocado. It’s decent but not remarkable, especially considering its $28 price tag. The wagyu gyoza are tender but lack the rich beef flavor one would expect from wagyu. The miso black cod is well-prepared but served in a small portion for $42.
Desserts and Service
Desserts include a matcha lava cake and a chocolate sphere that is theatrically presented. The matcha lava cake is overly sweet, while the chocolate sphere is more about show than taste. Service is attentive but can be slow during peak hours. Overall, the dining experience feels more about the brand and setting than culinary excellence.
In conclusion, Akira Back Ottawa offers a luxurious atmosphere but fails to deliver on the quality of its food, making it a questionable choice for those seeking value. The couple asking for advice would be better off exploring other dining options in Ottawa that offer better food at more reasonable prices.
