As someone with a lifelong passion for skincare, both personally and professionally, I thought I knew most active ingredients inside and out. So, when my facialist suggested swapping my trusted lactic acid for mandelic acid as my chemical exfoliant, I was taken aback. I had been a loyal user of lactic acid for years, but this recommendation sparked my curiosity to dive deeper into this rising ingredient.
The Switch That Transformed My Skincare Routine
For years, I relied on the Sophie Pavitt Face Mandelic Acid Exfoliating & Clearing Serum, available at Sephora for $54. With acne-prone skin, I was hesitant to alter my strict regimen, but the change proved worthwhile. I still enjoy the brightness and exfoliation benefits typical of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) from lactic acid, but now with a significant reduction in breakouts. This is especially crucial during seasons when my skin is most sensitive and prone to congestion.
Expert Insights on Mandelic Acid's Effectiveness
To understand why mandelic acid stands out among AHAs, I consulted Natalie Aguilar, a dermatological nurse and celebrity aesthetician. She emphasized that mandelic acid is one of her top choices due to its gentle yet effective nature. It is suitable for most individuals with sensitive, discolored, or acneic skin and safe for all skin tones. However, those with conditions like rosacea or dermatitis should seek advice from a dermatologist before use.
What Exactly Is Mandelic Acid?
Mandelic acid, derived from bitter almonds, shares similarities with lactic acid, which comes from milk. Aguilar explained, "They are two of the most gentle alpha hydroxy acids because they have a larger molecule structure than others, such as glycolic acid. This allows the molecule to stay on the skin's surface, providing gentle subsurface exfoliation." A great entry-level product is The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA Gentle Facial Exfoliating Serum, priced at $7.80 on Amazon.
Benefits and Usage Tips
Like lactic acid, mandelic acid pairs well with retinoids by helping remove dead skin cells that retinol accelerates. It is essential to use sunscreen diligently, as both AHAs and retinol increase sun sensitivity. Mandelic acid offers additional anti-bacterial properties, making it effective for acne prevention and treatment without compromising the skin's moisture barrier. It also delivers benefits such as reducing fine lines, hydrating, brightening, and evening out skin tone.
Is Mandelic Acid the Right Choice for You?
According to Aguilar, "Anyone with sensitive, discolored, acneic, or dull skin can use mandelic acid." It is a low-risk ingredient available in various strengths, typically starting from 5%-8% and increasing to 10%. For targeted treatment, products like The Inkey List Mandelic Acid formula, available on Amazon for $14, work well as spot treatments.
In summary, mandelic acid presents a compelling alternative to lactic acid, offering gentle exfoliation with added anti-bacterial advantages. Whether you are dealing with acne, sensitivity, or dullness, this ingredient might be the key to enhancing your skincare routine.
