It wasn't until I had a fancy cocktail in my hand that I began to appreciate the true vibe of FONO, the new hi-fi listening lounge housed in a 100-year-old building on Bronson Avenue. After hearing plenty of buzz about this intriguing spot—much of it generated by influencers who spent FONO's grand-opening weekend in April posting glam shots of everything from the polished decor to the elevated cocktails—I feared it would be filled with hipsters. That concern grew when I learned the only beer on tap is Sunsplit, a hefty IPA from Dominion City, a magnet for beer snobs with an ABV of 6.5% that was too strong for my tastes. But I was sure I'd find something suitable to drink the evening a friend and I made the short stroll from his Centretown apartment.
Then the cocktail menu caught my eye. The list of drink names read like an homage to the Ottawa music scene of days gone by: The Rotters Club, Zaphod, One Step Beyond, Paradise Room. (Still to come, perhaps, are drinks named after Barrymore's and Babylon?) My mind flashed back to the historic spots. The Rotters Club on Bank Street was before my time as a clubgoer, but I knew it as a stomping ground for the late-70s punk scene. A decade later, One Step Beyond opened as a rare all-ages venue that welcomed young local acts. And Zaphod, of course, refers to Zaphod Beeblebrox, the legendary bar on York Street in the ByWard Market space currently occupied by 27 Club. I saw hundreds of shows at Zaphod's before it closed, including early Ottawa gigs for Canadian rock bands of the 90s such as Our Lady Peace, Nickelback, Headstones, I Mother Earth, Junkhouse, Big Sugar and many more. Also memorialized on the menu is Cinqhole, the unique DIY establishment run by a team that included Matias Munoz, one of the partners in Fono, which shut down during the first year of the pandemic.
A Space Designed for Sound and Conversation
To get inside FONO, look for the red-lit exterior entrance on the side of the building. You will step into a sleek front room dominated by a bar counter and flanked by low chairs and tables. I had made a reservation in the lounge and got low-slung seats in a corner that were great for observing everyone else. For one or two people, sitting at the spacious bar is probably more comfortable and likely to lead to more socializing. Arguably, the best thing about FONO was the fact that we could hold a conversation while the music was playing. We didn't have to yell, thanks to the well-modulated sound system. The next best thing was the low lighting; nothing kills a vibe more, in my opinion, than glaring white lights.
High-End Audio and Thoughtful Details
A closer look around the room revealed a series of voluptuous speakers placed around the perimeter, DJ gear behind the bar and a dearth of giant screens. Don't come here for hockey playoffs, but do come to see the gorgeous hardwood speakers from Automatic Audio, and hear the magic they bring to old-school soul, funk or whatever else the DJs choose to spin. FONO is a direct descendant of some of Ottawa's most memorable live-music hangouts, but it offers a refined, listening-focused experience rather than a rowdy concert venue. The limited menu focuses on quality over quantity, with carefully crafted cocktails and a small selection of snacks, ensuring the focus remains on the music and conversation.
