Ryan Gosling's Iconic Sweater in Project Hail Mary Revives Vintage Mary Maxim Design
In the science fiction-adventure film Project Hail Mary, Ryan Gosling's character Ryland Grace wears a retro zip cardigan that has captured the attention of audiences and fashion enthusiasts alike. This distinct homespun, hand-knit sweater is instantly recognizable to many Canadians as a 1950s-style curling sweater, featuring stylized animals that unmistakably identify it as a vintage Mary Maxim pattern.
The Legacy of Mary Maxim
Founded in Sifton, Manitoba, over seventy years ago, the yarn and needlecraft brand Mary Maxim has remained a family-owned business for four generations. The company originated the graph-style pattern for home knitters in the 1950s before relocating to Paris, Ontario, where it continues to operate its Canadian business and a large retail emporium. Later expanding to the United States, Mary Maxim maintains its commitment to designing exclusive patterns and providing all necessary materials in kits.
"One of the things that makes us who we are is we still design exclusive patterns, and kit all the materials to make it," said president Mitch McPhedrain from the company's headquarters in Port Huron, Michigan.
The heavy woollen style represents a nostalgic favourite, rarely seen in contemporary fashion or pop culture. Prior to its appearance in Project Hail Mary, the sweater was last notably featured in Murder, She Wrote, worn by Angela Lansbury's character. Among Gosling's approximately fifty costume changes in the film, including a striking NASA extravehicular activity suit, this vintage cardigan stands out as particularly memorable.
From Vintage Market to Big Screen
During a video call from London, where Project Hail Mary was filmed, co-costume designers David Crossman and Glyn Dillon revealed how the vintage cardigan transitioned from bonspiel to cinematic spotlight. Dillon discovered the sweater at a Sunday vintage market in London, coincidentally on the same day as their initial meeting with Gosling. After sharing photographs with Crossman, he purchased it for ninety pounds.
"It was one of those instant things that when [Gosling] saw it, it became a favourite," Dillon explained. "It felt like it should go all the way through, and that would be his signature thing."
In the movie, each crew member possesses a small container of mementos from their lives on Earth, including street clothes. The cardigan appears among Ryland's items worn on the spacecraft, in flashback sequences, and—showing some wear—in the emotional final scene. This represents a departure from Andy Weir's original novel, where Ryland wears a standard-issue blue jumpsuit throughout the mission.
Creative Modifications for Character Development
Shortly before filming commenced, the Project Hail Mary team reconsidered the original sweater design, which featured a wolf with a trail of bloody paw prints. Crossman recalled that this might appear "a bit too aggressive for a primary teacher." Consequently, they altered the bloody prints to grey, changed the fur to brown, and softened the wolf's facial expression to more closely resemble a fox.
"Our poor knitter had to get them all done," Crossman remarked regarding the five handmade replica sweaters required for production. The modified Project Hail Mary version of the Mary Maxim cardigan pattern is now available on the brand's official website.
Costume design serves as a powerful storytelling tool, and alongside Ryland's scuffed white Converse shoes and graphic T-shirt collection, the knit sweater provides subtle clues about his personality and values. "It's a way of layering the story a little bit more so that there's a bit more character to him," Dillon noted.
Cultural Significance and Heritage
Light years from home aboard Project Hail Mary's advanced spacecraft, the sweater functions like a warm embrace. As an embodiment of ingenuity, creativity, and care, the knit speaks to the film's broader themes, particularly the hero's practical, low-tech approach to problem-solving.
Canadian curling sweaters are not typically available for purchase in conventional retail settings. Toronto mid-century vintage dealer Terri Lipman described them as "forever sweaters"—"legacy heirloom pieces passed down from one generation to the next."
Prized by collectors, pristine vintage examples can command prices up to two thousand dollars on platforms like eBay. Lipman emphasized that purists who appreciate the sweater's history recognize authentic Cowichan versions as particularly valuable for their Indigenous imagery and timeless beauty. These sweaters feature Indigenous icons such as the Thunderbird, crafted from natural wool and hand-knit by Coast Salish artisans from Vancouver Island. Both the sweaters and the knitters receive cultural protection from the Government of Canada.
Utilizing an intarsia knitting colourwork technique, curling sweaters evolved from nature and landscape designs in the 1950s to depictions of hobbies like fishing and sports, rendered in bright, bulky acrylic-blend yarns. "It's nostalgia that maybe you remember a family member in one," Lipman reflected. "I think it really just hits the heart."
Modern Resurgence and Contemporary Interpretations
Mary Maxim continues to distribute its yarn, crochet, and craft catalogues monthly, with the classic zip cardigan remaining president McPhedrain's personal favourite. "It was awesome to see them bring that back," he said regarding the call informing him that Gosling would wear their design on screen. McPhedrain expressed hope for a sweater resurgence, adding, "But if not, I just think it's cool that our designs made it that far and [they] wanted to feature it in a movie." Much like the film itself, this represents a sentimental journey.
Vintage Identification and Modern Alternatives
Lipman described these sweaters as "granny-knit," meaning they rarely include garment tags. The most useful clue for dating them is the zipper: earlier versions feature thick Lightning or Talon zippers, while 1960s models have smaller metal zippers, and from the late 1960s into the 1970s, the brand introduced thick-tooth plastic zippers.
For shoppers seeking immediate gratification, modern Canadian brands like Outclass and Faiz T.S. offer contemporary interpretations. Designer Matteo Sgaramella explained, "We wanted to lean more into Canadian heritage as our image and identity, to be more literal with it," regarding the introduction of a nod to retro style. The fifteen-year-old menswear label selected a classic goose motif as a tribute to the mail-order and kit sweaters of the 1960s. Outclass's version is softer and less bulky, crafted from a Peruvian alpaca and merino wool blend.
