For years, Ottawa's dining scene lacked a crucial element that food enthusiasts in Toronto and Montreal could readily enjoy: authentic omakase sushi experiences. This gap in the culinary landscape has now been filled by Tomo, a decade-old Japanese restaurant in the ByWard Market that has undergone a remarkable transformation to bring exquisite omakase to the nation's capital.
A Strategic Pivot to Upscale Dining
Owner Ann Lee, 35, recognized that both her restaurant and Ottawa's dining culture needed to evolve. "We were young then, it was fun," Lee reflected about Tomo's earlier incarnation as a casual izakaya-style lounge with bottle service. "But all of our friends are married and have kids. The culture has changed. People are more into mocktails."
Lee observed that mid-level restaurants like Tomo in its original form have struggled in the current economic climate, while both budget-friendly and high-end establishments have found greater success. Faced with this reality, Tomo made a strategic decision to "go upscale" and specialize in premium Japanese dining experiences.
The Omakase Transformation
In 2024, Tomo began its culinary evolution with a complete menu overhaul. The transformation culminated last November with the introduction of an omakase sushi program priced at $135 per person. The restaurant reclaimed part of its wrap-around bar to create an intimate six-seat sushi counter where guests can witness masterful preparation firsthand.
Starting this Saturday, Tomo will expand its omakase offerings to accommodate two seatings of twelve guests each evening. The restaurant's regular menu will continue to be available in the main dining room, allowing patrons to choose between traditional Japanese fare and the premium omakase experience.
Importing Excellence from Japan
Tomo's commitment to authenticity extends beyond menu changes. The restaurant not only sources premium raw fish directly from Japan but has also brought in Japanese chef Hikaru Yokoyama to lead the omakase program. "We imported him along with the fish," Lee quipped during a January service, highlighting the restaurant's dedication to genuine Japanese culinary traditions.
During a recent omakase dinner at Tomo, guests enjoyed what represents one of Ottawa's finest sushi experiences. The sixteen-course progression offers what could be considered sushi's greatest hits, providing a solid introduction to omakase traditions without venturing into more esoteric territory.
A Reasonably Priced Luxury
At $135 per person, Tomo's omakase represents exceptional value compared to similar experiences in larger cities. While Michelin-starred omakase operations in Toronto and Montreal can easily cost more than twice Tomo's price, the Ottawa establishment provides an accessible entry point into this refined dining tradition.
That said, there remains room for refinement and increased authenticity as Tomo continues to develop its program. The restaurant shouldn't be conflated with more experienced, higher-end omakase operations that have earned prestigious accolades, but it represents a significant step forward for Ottawa's culinary scene.
Testing Ottawa's Appetite for Premium Sushi
Tomo's venture into omakase represents a calculated risk in testing Ottawa's readiness for this level of Japanese dining. By offering familiar sushi highlights rather than obscure delicacies, the restaurant wisely introduces local diners to omakase traditions while building appreciation for this culinary art form.
The transformation from casual lounge to upscale sushi destination reflects broader changes in Ottawa's dining culture and demonstrates how restaurants must adapt to shifting consumer preferences and economic realities. Tomo's evolution suggests that Ottawa's culinary scene is maturing, with increasing demand for specialized, authentic dining experiences that previously required travel to larger cities.
As Tomo expands its omakase program and continues to refine its offerings, it establishes itself as a pioneer in bringing authentic Japanese culinary traditions to Ottawa while providing local food enthusiasts with an experience that was previously unavailable in the capital region.
