An Ottawa-based baker asserts that he has achieved the ultimate version of the beloved Canadian dessert, the Nanaimo bar. Adam Cenaiko, the proprietor of Adam Bakes, crafts these nostalgic treats that are available in select Ottawa coffee shops and at his Little Italy storefront on Saturday mornings.
A Nostalgic Treat with Saskatchewan Roots
Adam Cenaiko, now 41 years old, recalls fond childhood memories of his mother preparing Nanaimo bars every Christmas in Saskatchewan more than thirty years ago. "They're a very nostalgic treat for me," Cenaiko explains. "I have fond memories of sneaking into the freezer and eating them all." Today, as a professional pastry chef, he exercises more restraint, allowing him to focus on producing and selling these perfected bars through his eponymous business.
The History and Mystique of Nanaimo Bars
Nanaimo bars trace their origins back to the early 1950s in British Columbia. Initially, these no-bake desserts incorporated then-novel ingredients such as graham crackers and custard powder. The dessert's cultural significance was highlighted in 1986 when Graeme Roberts, the mayor of Nanaimo at the time, organized a competition to determine the best recipe. After four weeks and nearly one hundred submissions, a version featuring almonds and coconut in its base layer emerged victorious.
The Secrets to Perfection
Cenaiko emphasizes that achieving Nanaimo-bar perfection hinges on maintaining precise ratios between the layers. His bars, which are an inch and a half thick, feature a 1:1 ratio of the base layer to the custard layer. Additionally, he insists that the top chocolate layer should be thin to balance the dessert's sweetness.
The Importance of a Properly Baked Base
One of Cenaiko's key innovations is baking the base layer, which consists of graham crackers, cocoa powder, coconut, and walnuts. He cautions against overbaking, which can result in a dry texture. "Nothing is worse than a dry base on a Nanaimo bar," he states, advocating for a slightly underbaked base to preserve moisture and flavor.
Traditional Ingredients with an Ottawa Twist
Staying true to tradition, Cenaiko uses Bird's brand custard powder for the custard layer, a component many purists consider essential. "Some would say it's not a Nanaimo bar without it," he notes. However, he introduces a distinctly local element by incorporating award-winning Hummingbird chocolate from Almonte for the ganache topping.
He specifically selects Hummingbird's Hispaniola dark chocolate, which provides a bitter contrast that cuts through the dessert's overall sweetness. This choice also enhances the bars' appearance, as the chocolate cuts cleanly, resulting in crisp edges. Cenaiko criticizes mass-produced versions, where the edges often crack, remarking, "It looks terrible."
From Executive Pastry Chef to Freelance Baker
Before launching Adam Bakes in 2018, Cenaiko honed his skills as the pastry chef at the Rideau Club and later as the executive pastry chef at the Fairmont Chateau Laurier. The high-pressure environment of the latter position led to burnout, prompting him to establish his own freelance baking venture.
Where to Find Adam Bakes Nanaimo Bars
Today, Cenaiko supplies his Nanaimo bars to several Ottawa-area coffee shops, including Bower in Westboro, September in Stittsville, Cloudforest Coffee in Westboro and Hull, Hummingbird Chocolate in Almonte, and Café Bon Vivant in Russell. Each location offers a taste of his meticulously crafted version of this classic Canadian treat.
