Co Oi Kitchen: A Northern Vietnamese Gem in Ottawa's Glebe
When stepping into Co Oi Kitchen, a charming Vietnamese eatery nestled on a side street in Ottawa's Glebe neighborhood, diners might first notice something unexpected on the menu. This cozy restaurant, which opened its doors last fall, presents a refreshingly different approach to Vietnamese cuisine by specializing in Northern Vietnamese dishes rather than the more common Southern Vietnamese fare found throughout the city.
A Pho-Free Zone with Purpose
The most striking aspect of Co Oi Kitchen's menu is what it deliberately omits. This establishment operates as practically a pho-free zone, a bold move in a city where the iconic noodle soup has become synonymous with Vietnamese dining. While Ottawa has developed a well-deserved reputation for its numerous pho restaurants since the late 1980s, Co Oi Kitchen distinguishes itself through its concisely curated menu that emphasizes regional authenticity and modern culinary approaches.
"It offers things that aren't just pho. I've been searching for that since I moved here," remarked a colleague of Vietnamese descent during a recent visit, highlighting how the restaurant fills a distinct niche in Ottawa's culinary landscape. This sentiment reflects the growing appreciation for diverse regional Vietnamese cooking beyond the familiar soup-based establishments.
Northern Vietnamese Authenticity
The restaurant's distinctive character stems directly from its owner-operators, chef Thao Tran and front-of-house manager Chi Nguyen, both originally from Northern Vietnam. Unlike earlier waves of Vietnamese migration to Ottawa that were predominantly from Southern Vietnam, Tran and Nguyen bring their Northern culinary heritage to the Canadian capital, having arrived from Vietnam in 2018 when both were in their early thirties.
Their younger generational perspective manifests throughout the dining experience, from the attractive, lively ambiance of the cozy 22-seat dining room with its exposed brick walls (previously home to Indian restaurant Last Train to Delhi) to the thoughtful beverage program featuring Asian-themed cocktails priced between $14 and $16 alongside interesting beer selections.
Signature Dishes That Define the Experience
The culinary philosophy at Co Oi Kitchen becomes immediately apparent through its interpretation of classic dishes. The spring rolls, for instance, showcase Nguyen's commitment to Northern Vietnamese authenticity. Known as "nem" in Northern Vietnam rather than the Southern "chả giò," these spring rolls feature heartier fillings with more complex flavor profiles and distinctive nubbly-textured exteriors that set them apart from their Southern counterparts.
Other standout starters include flavorful skewers of pork or chicken, each served with distinctive accompaniments. The pork belly skewers come with a garlicky hot sauce, while the chicken skewers, remarkably juicy despite using white meat, are paired with a green sauce offering a slightly sharp, spicy kick.
Among the larger dishes, the Bún Bò Nam Bộ ($24) exemplifies Northern Vietnamese culinary traditions with its punchy sautéed beef preparation, a formulation specifically associated with Hanoi according to Nguyen. This dish combines vermicelli, papaya, carrots, bean sprouts, and peanuts into a vibrant, texturally complex bowl that has earned particular praise from those familiar with Hanoi's culinary scene.
The restaurant also offers a refreshing jerk salad ($15) featuring shredded papaya and carrot, fresh mint, cilantro, and morsels of beef jerky that creates a pleasing mix of flavors and textures.
A Welcome Addition to Ottawa's Dining Scene
Co Oi Kitchen represents more than just another Vietnamese restaurant in Ottawa. It brings authentic Northern Vietnamese culinary traditions to a city already rich with Vietnamese dining options, offering well-crafted dishes with clear, clean flavors that feel both familiar and distinctly different. The restaurant's focus on regional specificity, combined with its modern approach to ambiance and beverage service, has created a dining destination that appeals to both those seeking authentic Vietnamese experiences and culinary adventurers looking beyond the expected.
As Ottawa continues to develop its reputation as a diverse culinary destination, establishments like Co Oi Kitchen demonstrate how regional specificity and authentic culinary traditions can create memorable dining experiences that stand out in a crowded marketplace. The restaurant's success suggests a growing appetite among Ottawa diners for more nuanced, regionally-specific interpretations of global cuisines.
