Developing a personal style that feels authentic and confident can often be a daunting task, especially when faced with a closet full of clothes that don't seem to work together. While the mantra of wearing what you love with confidence is widely accepted, it offers little practical guidance during those moments of sartorial confusion. This is where fashion formulas come into play—not as rigid rules, but as flexible guidelines designed to steer you toward more polished and intentional outfits.
The Power of Fashion Formulas
Fashion formulas serve as valuable tools to help individuals navigate their wardrobe choices with greater ease and purpose. According to Hallie Abrams, a personal stylist based in Cleveland and creator of the Wardrobe Consultant, these guidelines are meant to empower rather than restrict. "The formulas are a tool to help you find the things where you feel really good," Abrams explains. "If it becomes inhibiting, it's not great. If it becomes empowering, then it is great."
We consulted with several stylists and fashion experts to explore some of the most well-known numerical fashion formulas, their practical applications, and potential adjustments to suit individual needs.
The Third Piece Rule
Transforming a basic combination of pants and a shirt into a complete outfit often requires a third piece. This could be a blazer, sweater, vest, or even an accessory like a scarf, belt, or jewelry. Lani Inlander, a personal stylist with Real Life Style in Washington, D.C., emphasizes that the third piece can be interpreted broadly. For a client who preferred minimalism and avoided typical third pieces, Inlander suggested a brightly colored button-down shirt, noting that the color itself served as the third element, adding vibrancy and cohesion to the look.
The Three-Colour Rule
This rule suggests limiting an outfit to a maximum of three colors, with black and white typically excluded from the count. The aim is to create a visually pleasing ensemble without appearing cluttered. Gemma Dorling, who has blogged about fashion since 2013 on her site Life's a Catwalk, finds this rule particularly useful when mixing patterns, prints, and textures. "It helps if you're aiming to look more put together," she says.
The Two-Out-of-Three Rule
As the name implies, this guideline recommends that two of your three main pieces share the same color. This could involve matching your shirt and bottom, your bottom and third piece, or your top and third piece. Abrams highlights its utility for those who favor neutrals but wish to incorporate more color. "It's a way to make it feel accessible," she notes, adding that it also helps create harmony in outfits that might otherwise look too busy.
The 70/30 Rule
Focused on closet composition, this rule advises that approximately 70 percent of your wardrobe consist of timeless basics, with the remaining 30 percent dedicated to more eye-catching, stylish, or trendy pieces. Dorling points out that this approach helps prevent overconsumption and ensures longevity in your style. "If you're continuously buying trends, it's going to look dated very quickly," she explains. However, stylists like Dejeuné Harris of Your Style Is Forever caution that the precise ratio may vary based on individual needs and definitions of what constitutes a timeless basic.
The Seven-Point Rule
This formula assigns points to each item in an outfit: one point for staples like shoes or jeans, and two or three points for items with more striking colors, textures, or shapes. The goal is to achieve a total between seven and ten points, striking a balance between interest and excess. While this rule gained popularity on social media, many experts, including Harris, find it impractical. "This is just so unrealistic and not practical for getting dressed. You have to have your calculator out," Harris remarks. Inlander concurs, stating she lacks the "brain power" to apply it consistently.
The 3-3-3 Rule
By selecting three tops, three bottoms, and three pairs of shoes that all work together, this rule aims to help build a capsule wardrobe. While our sources agreed it might not be realistic for everyday life due to laundry demands and the need for more variety, Harris finds it excellent for travel planning. "It's perfect for travel," she says. Inlander offers an alternative, suggesting five essential pieces: an item in your power color, well-tailored trousers, walkable dress shoes, a structured tote, and a comfortable blazer.
The Five Outfit Rule
Before making a new purchase, this rule encourages you to envision at least five different outfits you can create with the item using pieces already in your wardrobe. Dorling appreciates this approach for promoting intentional shopping. "How many times do you buy something you love, only to realize you need three more items to match it?" she asks. Harris supports this mindset, especially for clients who own many clothes but lack cohesive outfits. For formalwear likely worn only once, she recommends rental services instead of purchases.
Abrams offers her own variation: before buying, especially sale items, consider three ways to wear it, three places to wear it, and three existing wardrobe pieces it pairs with. By integrating these numerical fashion formulas, you can simplify your style decisions, enhance your wardrobe's versatility, and ultimately dress with greater confidence and clarity.
