At Yan's Restaurant on Murray Street in Ottawa's ByWard Market, savvy diners know the proper way to eat khinkali, the Georgian dumplings that are a signature dish. They grab the pleated dumpling by its doughy tail, flip it upside down, take a small nibble, and then nimbly suck out the savory broth before taking larger bites of the beef and pork filling. Using cutlery is frowned upon, as it would squander the precious juices.
Yan's, which opened in December, is Ottawa's first restaurant to focus on the cuisines of Georgia and Armenia, two neighboring countries in the Caucasus region east of Turkey. The menu offers a 50-50 split between Armenian and Georgian dishes, including khinkali (priced at $5 to $5.50 depending on filling), kebab platters, stews cooked in clay pots, and massive dumplings.
From Finance to Food
Owners and chefs Armen Dalibaldyan and his wife Gohar Ghumashyan, both Armenian, immigrated to Toronto in 2019 and worked in financial institutions before moving to Ottawa for more affordable housing. They decided to open a restaurant because Armenian and Georgian food were not available in the city. "This is a niche that is actually empty," says Dalibaldyan. Their customers include expat Armenians and Georgians, as well as emigres from other post-Soviet states, including recently arrived Ukrainians.
The couple initially dreamed of running a small cafe, but when they found the Murray Street location—formerly a pizza place—they saw the large pizza oven and realized its potential. "We can make anything in it," says Dalibaldyan. They renovated the space to seat 70, with a 36-seat patio planned. The restaurant's name reflects the Armenian surname suffix "yan."
Signature Dishes
From the pizza oven come two signature Georgian breads: khachapuri lazoori ($25), a round, fluffy bread filled with melted cheese, and khachapuri ajarooli ($30), a boat-shaped bread laden with salty-sour sulguni cheese, butter, and egg yolk, tossed table-side. Other highlights include tolma ($24), Armenian stuffed grape leaves with minced meat, rice, and herbs; satsivi ($16), a cold Georgian chicken dish in a ground walnut, garlic, and spice sauce; and a garden platter ($48) with dips, grilled mushrooms, carrot salad, marinated zucchini, cabbage, and cauliflower.
