Cook This: 3 Recipes from Lebanon, Including Barbecued Chicken Wings
Anissa Helou returns to the foods of her homeland, more than 30 years after her cookbook debut. Our cookbook of the week is Lebanon by Anissa Helou. This article includes recipes for barbecued chicken wings, green beans in tomato sauce, and the priest's salad.
A Return to Roots
More than 30 years after her cookbook debut, Lebanese Cuisine (1994), chef Anissa Helou commemorated it by taking a regional approach to the foods of her homeland. In Lebanese Cuisine, Anissa documented the recipes of her late mother, Laurice Helou. She embraced the opportunity to revisit her native cuisine in her new book, Lebanon (Ecco, 2026).
“It was great because when I wrote the first book, it was all about my mother. It could have been my mother’s book,” she says. At the time, Anissa hadn’t been to Lebanon for at least a decade. Laurice gave her the recipes, which she adjusted and researched at libraries. “I wrote it with a sort of nostalgic approach, and to a country that I had left and that I had not been to because of the civil war.”
A Tribute to Her Mother
Anissa dedicated Lebanon, in part, to Laurice, who died in March 2025. “She’s been very instrumental. She was a great cook,” says Anissa. While Lebanese Cuisine focused on the food of Laurice’s family and where she came from in the Shouf Mountains, Lebanon spans the nation and is based on Anissa’s extensive travels. “It was interesting, because in this one, I made her discover dishes that she didn’t know. But unfortunately, she didn’t live long enough to see it, which is very sad.”
Discovering Regional Diversity
The James Beard Award-winning author of nearly a dozen cookbooks, including Feast: Food of the Islamic World (2018), was born in Beirut and raised between the Lebanese capital and Mashta el-Helou, Syria, where she spent summers visiting her father’s family. For many years, Anissa thought Lebanese cuisine was a national one. Her understanding of its regionality grew over time, and in researching her latest book, it became even more apparent.
“There were lots of dishes that I, my mother and another friend who’s like my mother, and knows a lot about Lebanese food, didn’t even know about,” says Anissa, who now divides her time between London, England, and Sicily, Italy.
Anissa and Beirut-based reportage photographer Dalia Khamissy travelled the country for Lebanon, starting in 2021 but mostly in 2022 and ’23. The research was rewarding, says Anissa. Most people welcomed them with open arms, and were happy to talk, to be photographed, to cook for them and introduce her to regional specialties.
“Some of the recipes in this book are the classic recipes from the mountains of Lebanon, and some are my mother’s as well, but a lot of them are new and new to me and new to those who live there.”
A Bittersweet Publication
As conflict in the region continues, Anissa says the book is “double-edged.” She’s happy she documented the people, the culinary heritage and the recipes, “but it is a bit tragic, because this beautiful book that illustrates everything that’s gorgeous about Lebanese food is coming out at a very tragic time.”
She notes that her first book had very few photos and the “gorgeous” images of Syria, Turkey and the rest of the Eastern Mediterranean for Levant (2013) were lost when the photographer experienced a burglary. With Lebanon, she wanted to document the food culture not only in writing but in photography, too.
Recipe: Barbecued Chicken Wings
This recipe brings the smoky, tangy flavors of Lebanese barbecue to your table. The marinade combines lemon juice, garlic, and spices for a vibrant finish.
Recipe: Green Beans in Tomato Sauce
A comforting side dish that pairs perfectly with grilled meats or rice. The beans are simmered in a rich tomato sauce with onions and garlic.
Recipe: The Priest’s Salad
A refreshing salad with a story, featuring crisp vegetables and a lemony dressing. It’s a light and healthy addition to any meal.
